We like our maid. She’s sweet, and she’s drama free. Probably because she doesn’t speak much English.  A few months ago, she came to our door after I posted a “wanted” ad on our compound’s forum. Within a few seconds, I rejected her offer because of the lack of language skills, but she asked me to call her “Ma’m”, her other employer, who then convinced me to give her a try. Out of desperation at the accumulation of red dust around the house, I did, and I don’t regret it.

We overpay her. I know! I am an awful negotiator and have no intention of arguing over 1000 rupees, or $16 per month. As far as I am concerned, we are paying her to clean (not her strongpoint!) and more importantly, to have a slightly better understanding of Indian life.  And for that, she deserves double salary.

There is this unspoken rule (pun intended) between us that we’ll do whatever it takes to understand each other. This includes drawings, Google translate, a translating app, calling her other “Ma’m”, or it all else fails, our driver. She speaks Kannada, Hindi and a slew of other languages, but little English. Obviously our conversations are not philosophical, but we usually get the message across. But how does one draw the wind slamming windows shut? “Google translate” works great for Kannada, and the Iphone app for Hindi says out loud what you want it to translate. Once, after a few minutes of getting nowhere, she pointed to the office upstairs and said “computer”. I typed in my message in English, and she read the Kannada script on the screen. Like I said, we won’t take “no” for an answer.

The first thing she does when she enters the house is leave her keys, wallet and dupatta on the scatching post, and heads to the kitchen to do the dishes. With cold water. Sometimes she mops the upstairs living room, sometimes she doesn’t. Sometimes she makes the bed, sometimes she doesn’t.  I don’t know why.

She loves the cats. She always pets our big girl, even gave her a kiss on the nose once.  Last week she dragged me out of the office because she had settled into an open suitcase for a nap. The cat, not the maid.  She thought that was hilarious!

She drives a scooter. It is her brother’s scooter she told me. When she was working for the lady who lived in the house behind us, I could hear her leave that house, ride around the corner, and a minute later, park in our garage. I have tried to convince her to wear a helmet, but no.

A while back, she went on a long weekend (she had to miss a day) and brought me pictures of her family: her mother, her teenage daughter and a grown son who goes to college, studying commerce. Her daughter goes to an English-medium school, and she’s very proud of that.  Her daughter will therefore have opportunities she does not have. And she brought me sweets her mother had made.  Her husband?  He’s dead.  So she raises two kids on her maid’s salary.

Once, I told her the jasmine in her hair smelled really nice. The next day, she brought me my own flowers. I kneeled on the floor and she put them in my clip, giggling the entire time. She wasn’t pleased with my bangs (very few women have bangs) and kept trying to flatten the front part of my hair. And I have learned, again, that hair should be neatly tucked behind your ears. The kids at school had made that very clear! And you need to fold that string of flowers in two first, then clip it. Oops, I did it wrong and she re-did it for me.

I have been coughing for a couple of weeks now. The first day, she smiled, and left me alone. Today, she came to me and told me to stop drinking cold beverages, went downstairs, boiled water and put it in a bottle for me. Added to the gesture for “drink this”, she explained my cold would be gone in a week or two. I think that’s really sweet! I have given her Aleve and L-Lysine in the past, so we are exchanging booboo medicines.

Recently, she asked me to get chalk so she could draw rangolis on our front porch. We couldn’t find chalk sticks in any stores so I bought a bag of rangoli powder, and every time she comes, she sweeps the old one out, and draws a new one. Today I got a bonus: since tomorrow is the Festival of Laxshmi, goddess of money, she picked flowers in our front bushes, as well as a few leaves and placed them in our welcoming bowl. I like that! The DHL courier guy today explained to me what is involved in this festival: women take out all their cash and place it at the altar (in their home, not the regular temple) and wear all their good jewelry. Laxshmi will then, hopefully, provide for more money in the future. He wasn’t pleased my rangoli was white only, and suggested I should get some colored chalk, to make it prettier.  I hadn’t asked for his opinion, but thanks!

We now have this little game going on with our maid. She has always asked for a bottle of water when she leaves, and we do have a pantry full of them (we have a walk-in pantry, that’s awesome!). After Big Basket deliveries, we often have dozens of bottles of Coke on the kitchen floor. One day she tentatively asked for “juice”, pointing at the Coke, instead of water. I don’t think she liked it, because the next time, when I offered “juice” she pointed instead at the fruit juice boxes. So now, before she leaves, we have a 2-minute ceremony between the pantry and the refrigerator, when she chooses which fruit juice she would like to take home! She’s not impressed by tomato juice and today didn’t want lychee, preferring to leave empty handed (not even water, the weather is not that hot anymore) but with a promise that I would have mango next time! We think it’s really cute, and don’t feel taken advantage of at all. It’s a mini exchange of personal preferences. She has brought me yummy rice from home, so she can have our boxed juices.

I think everybody who comes in contact with me knows that my favorite Indian dish is dosas. But dosa batter is a pain to make, it takes hours of grinding, leavening, and mixing and more waiting. One afternoon, while she saw me struggling with a recipe book, she told me which ingredients to buy and made me a batch the next time she came.  She laughed when I measured how much pooha and methi she was using (yes, I now know what those things are). She even insisted, though I declined, to come back later that evening for step 2, and the next morning for step 3. And her recipe is delicious!

She absolutely wants me to wear a sari.  She usually wears a shalwar kameez. Once she came wearing a sari and E. and I were both stunned. She’s beautiful (we knew that, she’s really pretty). We wanted to take a picture of her but the camera battery was dead that day. I have no idea how women can maneuver with 8 yards of fabric wrapped around their bodies, but it seems to work. The day she brought me the hair flowers, she asked if we could take a picture together. I obliged and later gave her a couple of prints. She’s kinda pouting on the photo.  Indians are very formal on their pictures, which is a shame because they have amazing smiles. She looked at them, pondered for a few seconds and said, disappointed: “You white, me black”.

That is sad. So awfully sad.

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Oh, how I was looking forward to having tailor made clothes! I had come to India under the assumption that I would go home in a couple of years with a closet full of well-fitted clothes in exotic luxurious fabrics: Madras silk, Bengali cottons…  That’s what they wrote in every book for expats, and I believed them.

Once again, I was mistaken!

In South India, women seem to have three choices as to what to wear: western wear, the sari, and the shalwar kameez.  The shalwar is a kind of loose pants that comes in different shapes, and the kameez is the long tunic.  It’s always worn with a dupatta, or scarf, worn with the ends on the back.  That’s what I usually wear when I am outside, mainly because it’s comfy.

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Dress material as it is called, comes with four pieces. Sometimes the front and back are the same.

And one: Because I am smart, I started small.  I bought some cheap fabric at the local equivalent of Walmart and called a tailor recommended in the book of the stupid women’s club I belong to.  The lady was very nice and owns a little tailor factory close by.  I went to her apartment, wearing the tunic I wanted her to replicate exactly.  No problem Madam.  She measured me every which way and I handed her the fabric.  After three weeks, I called complaining about the delay since the usual turnaround for a full tunic and pant set should be a 3-4 days.  Guess what?  It doesn’t fit.  It’s a tent.  It’s literally 4 inches too big on each side.  Thought I wasn’t pleased, I didn’t complain, because I like the blue fabric (see above picture), it’s a loose tunic, and perfect for steamy hot weather.  I wore it a lot in Kochi.

And two: Time to find a new tailor.  I casually asked neighbors but still no one volunteered a name. Tailors are like family recipes back in the States: they are well guarded, and given only to well deserving friends.  I guess I am not deserving yet!

Close to home, on Varthur road, I saw a little boutique that looked cute and inviting, with a nice old lady owner to boost.  Same thing: I brought cheap pink fabric and got measured all over.  But I had a feeling right away something would go wrong.  She kept pulling her tape measurer over my chest.  I kept inhaling deeply.  She kept squishing my breast (this not the first time this happens, check this older post).  No worry Madam.  Then she measured my calves in the wrong spot.  Not to fall on stereotypes, but Indian women are shaped differently: they often have calves much skinnier than ours, and the bulge of the muscle is higher, closer to the knee.  I knew she was getting it too tight, I just knew it.  No worry Madam (when will I ever learn?).  I stated I didn’t want it lined.  I wanted that particular top to wear while teaching, and it needed to be as light and cool as possible.  I strongly insisted I didn’t want a lining.  A week later, no surprise, I get my suit, it’s too small, and of course it’s lined.  She loosened the top within 24 hours but I had the pants taken out at the mini tailor across the street.  For the fun story, he took the pants in instead of out, but that was an honest mistake, and he profusely apologized about it and only charged me half price.

And three: This time I went all out.  I bought the fabric at a nice store, an expensive store on Commercial Street and had the suits made there.  I paid quite a bit for a flowing, flowery cotton fabric that I fell in love with.  In a book they showed me, I chose a pattern that would easily be converted as a summer dress when back in the U.S.  A tailor came from the third floor to measure me and we discussed necklines, piping, lining, and length and pant shapes.  I left giddy!   A week later, I got yet another tent.  No shape whatsoever.  And too small a tent to boost.  The flowy fabric is lined with heavy linen, which completely ruins the look.  He fixed the width of the tunics within an hour, leaving a visible seam mark on each side, but I still have to take the pants across the street.  The piping however is exquisite, that man certainly is a good tailor for someone other than myself.

I have been told I need to be more assertive.  I tried but I can’t do much more.  I just pout and leave, swear to myself never to come back, tell all my friends about my bad experiences, and go give my money to someone else.

You ask me how I want it.  I tell you how I want it.  You know how to do it.  Yet you don’t do it.  I don’t get it.

And four: I bought a sewing machine…

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Before moving to India, I studied as if I were to pass the entrance exam to the rest of my life.  I read everything I could get my hands on, almost indiscriminately.  And it pretty much paid off.  However, there are a couple of subjects I avoided, such as caste (I don’t think a foreigner can grasp this concept and its implications in a few years), politics (though arriving during election campaign was interesting) and art (with the exception of cinema of course, and contemporary literature).

I already don’t know much about Western art, so I wasn’t going to claim to understand Indian art.  Our main works of art are deeply engrained in our Judeo-Christian culture, with a smidge of Greek mythology, and similarly, Indian art is steeped in Hinduism, and Islam.

I don’t know the first thing about Hinduism.  Well, not quite anymore!  We bought little kiddie books on some of the different gods, and I now know that Ganesh, the god in the shape of an elephant, rides a mouse.  Yes, his transport is a mouse!  It’s a good thing to know, because when you go into the tourist shops looking for a statue of Ganesh and ask (nicely) for one that features his mouse, they will smile at you believing (half rightly) that you know what you’re talking about!

India has tens of thousands of temples.  And, I almost shamefully admit, we have visited almost none of them.  There is a reason for that: we don’t understand.  We have no clue what we are supposed to be looking at.  We have nothing to ground this knowledge into.  We have to assess what we see based on feelings.  Our connection to temples is mainly emotional: does this look good to us?  Is it pretty?  Is it funny? Does it create an aura of peace?  Does it stir our soul somehow?  Aside from that, what we see, or hear from a guide is purely mechanical, technical.  We understand that it was built in the 7th century, but its cultural significance escapes us. Sometimes they provide written guidance on the site.  I feel stupid stating that the following means nothing to me.

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However, the Shore Temple is beautiful, my favorite so far, probably because of the proximity to the Sea of Bengal.  A temple on a beach, how cool is that?

Shore temple

We will visit more.  But our idea of traveling is not a long list of pre-approved sightseeing places to cross out.  It’s about connecting to a place, and to people.

So, there, my favorite: more photos of people, all taken at the Kamashi Temple in Kancheepuram.

 

 

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My spot in the car is behind Sathya and that’s where I sat for over 700 kilometers, on our road trip to Chennai. We went by car because my passport needs to be renewed, and once you leave it at the American consulate, you can’t board a plane.

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For the entire time, we both had our cameras on our laps and traveled American style: from the comfort of an air-conditioned car, not even taking the time to stop to take pictures. If we had asked Sathya to pull over every time the scenery was interesting, the poor guy would have quit! Most of the photos were taken from a moving car, with a few exceptions of those taken while stuck in traffic. Hence, a lot of those pictures have a rearview mirror, a dashboard, a wiping blade, a glare, the occasional bird poo, our driver’s profile or even my husband’s profile in the frame. We won’t call that a flaw but an artsy “reality” photographic style!

I am still in awe at the beauty of this country. My eyes are so happy (though my ears need a vacation!)

We first went south to Hosur, then on a wonderful highway for 200 kms to Kancheepuram, then a two lane road again to Mamalapuram, where we stayed for 2 nights. The construction of the highway shaved off 3 hours to the trip, making it a 6-hour journey to Chennai. Sometimes it looks like an American highway. There is an area that reminded us of Sonora, Mc Donald’s included, if it weren’t for the sari clad side saddled riding women (click to enlarge).

People walk. A lot. Everywhere. And carrying every sorts of things.

We have become accustomed to the different ways of transporting people,

and of transporting merchandise, especially rain water reservoirs,

and sometimes of transporting people and merchandise all together.

On this trip I witnessed a new cargo: cattle. We saw dozens of such trucks and I don’t think it was for the cows’ benefit. Something tells me this is someone’s dinner in the near future.

Once you get out of the city, people dress more traditionally, especially men.  We saw a lot of men wearing dhotis and lungis.  In Bangalore, we see older men wearing them, but in the villages, or even in Chennai, men wear them regardless of age, and coolness.  Check the guy with the neon sunglasses and the man brushing his teeth.  I have no idea why he decided to brush his teeth by the side of a busy road.

Once in Tamil Nadu, you cannot not know who the Chief Minister (i.e. governor) is.  Selvi J. Jayalalithaa’s face is sprawled on thousands of billboards, and since her government has provided free school supplies to many children, her face is also on backpacks, and my guess would be, many other products.

We drove past a landfill.  The picture shows only about 1/10th of burning landfill.  It truly makes you wonder about the garbage we produce.

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Talking about destruction, India has an interesting take on “eminent domain”.  If they want to build a road and need the land your house sits on, they will not destroy the entire house, just the part that is required.  In many towns bordering the highway, you see houses broken in half.  Why break the whole house if you can still use the back rooms?

But the best part is always people in their everyday life.

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What on Earth possessed us to go to Goa in April? Cheap rates that’s what. And you know why it was so cheap? Because it’s the hottest place in the entire universe! I know, the hottest is Death Valley, but when we drove through Death Valley, we were in a cozy air conditioned car, not in a hotel with dozens of power failures a day, and night, when the AC goes Kaboom! It was summer, as summer in India is April and May.  We can handle Texas humid summers, but I nearly passed out in this dry heat.  Nonetheless, we truly had a wonderful time.

Goa is pretty. Kochi was pretty, but Goa is prettier. Let’s face it: Bangalore is ugly (my opinion). Don’t get me wrong, we love that place (especially its climate now that we have experienced, though partially, Indian heat) but the development of Bangalore was not followed by adequate urban planning. Bangalore is a city on a mission, an economic and technological mission. Goa however is still a small town, with clear mementos of its Portuguese past, with names such as D’Souza and Fernandez, and clothing clearly inspired by old Portuguese fashion, including “normal” dresses (see picture of the woman with the dog below). Of course, there are many beautiful old Catholic churches everywhere. Many are being restored.  Shoes are once again optional.

Once again, we dream of retiring in one of the thousands of a Mediterranean style old houses, painted every color of the rainbow, especially yellow, purple and red.

But there are some less beautiful residences, thanks to the proximity to the sea.  We had seen similar moldy buildings in Mumbai, even in very posh neighborhoods.

goa-4We rented a scooter, and also hired a car to show us the touristy places.  As is common practice in India, the dashboard of the car is decorated with religious figures.  We use Ganesh.  This time it was Mary.

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Calangute and Candolim, the world famous surf beaches, had thousands of people but only a handful in the water, Shrek and his castle (so much for “no photography”, I only saw the notice when I got home!), but no surfers.

The hotel was all inclusive, a rarity here. Half the clientele was European, the other half Indian, some NRI judging by their accent. Remember when I was complaining about how some foreigners dress? Indian women cover up. A lot. Even in the pool. We have seen many women, as well as little girls, wearing bathing suits that look to us more like a wetsuit designed for scuba diving than for splashing around in a pool, covering everything from the elbows down to the knees. At the beach, we didn’t see one woman who wasn’t fully covered up. If I think that some foreigners look indecent, I wonder what goes on through other people’s minds.  We recently saw a young woman walk out of our compound wearing short-shorts and a cami.  No.

We met a few nice dogs, really nice dogs.  Some strays, some pets.

Bangalore has thousands of dogs, stray dogs, but they aren’t particularly friendly. They hang around food places hoping for crumbs but don’t seek human contact besides that. Goan dogs are much friendlier. Since the risk of rabies was pounded into me by the company nurse back in San Diego, I breathed deeply in apprehension when a few approached us on the beach, walked around and sniffed us. We carefully petted them on the head, and they absolutely loved it. That’s all they wanted, a bit of attention and a  scratch behind the ears. The dog above on the beach, whom we met several days in a row, we called him “BB”.

Those stray dogs are welcome anywhere.

goa-12When was the last time you saw a dog walking into a basilica and take a nap between the pews?

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Does a bacteria need a visa to enter the US?

It’s been a rough couple of days for E.

Flights from Bangalore to Europe, usually to Frankfurt or London leave around 3am.  It has once taken me 45 minutes just to go through security, so we leave the house around 11:30.  It can take a little more than an hour to reach the airport at night.

Tummy gurgling.

The line at security was short, so he got to hang out at the airport.  Then he slept on the plane until Frankfurt.

Tummy still gurgling.

This time, security idiots at FRA were nice and all went smoothly.  E. got to hang out at the lounge, enjoying free drinks and munchies.

And onto the second plane.  Only a few hours before being home.  One long stretch but nothing a few inflight movies and food won’t make tolerable.

Plane delayed 15 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, mechanical problems, plane delayed indefinitely.  Flight canceled.  There we go, it would have been too easy.

Get assigned onto a new flight to Boston, spend the night there and fly to Houston.

Where’s the bathroom?

United Airlines, because they are who they are, provided a free night in a hotel 40 miles from the hotel.  And a food voucher for $7.00.  Have you tried to get food at an airport for 7 bucks?  Not much sleep but an American toilet is nice.

Finally home.  Without luggage of course.  It will take 3 days for all the pieces of luggage to reach destination.

Really upset tummy and now a fever of 102.

Time to go on WebMD.  He’s gonna die!  You’re always going to die when you check your symptoms on WebMD.  He feared malaria, I feared cholera.

Thanks to the nightmarish hospitals in the US, a lot of “doc in a box” have sprung around the country, one very close to our house.  State of the art I was told, even with an MRI machine.  After blood tests and a diagnostic of infectious colitis, they put my husband on an IV drip for a while, sent him home with a prescription for antibiotics and ibuprofen for the fever.  It cost a bit more than his last hospital visit, but all is fine.

And you thought expat life was all glamour!

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Accident on Friday night

It wasn’t any of us this time, but it was really bad. We were coming back from a wonderful dinner not too far from home. It was about midnight (we closed the restaurant, something I hadn’t done in a long time!) and the roads were eerily quiet. Then we heard the screeching of breaking metal, a sound that gives goose bumps to anyone who has suffered a bad accident. There was nobody in front of us for about 200 meters, and it was rather dark. Then I saw the body, laying in the middle of the ground, in a white shirt and shorts. Absolutely motionless. A mangled motorcycle laid on the side, in the sand. A helmet that he may or may not have be wearing wasn’t far. It only took us a few second to reach him, we stopped, and I started yelling “help”. I also told my poor husband “Call someone”. Ok, but who? A van with several men had already stopped on the other side of the road, some of them on their phone. Were they talking to their buddies or calling for help, I don’t know. I ran towards this man, with my helmet still on and saw that his mouth was full of blood but he made a faint sound. Good, he’s not dead. Not good at all, but not dead. I placed my hand on his, careful not to move him, but I felt silly telling him “It’s gonna be ok”, so I simply smiled at him. Several men on our side of the road were approaching, several cars had slowed down, none of them passed us since we were blocking traffic. Then a young man jumped off his motorcycle and grabbed him under the shoulders to move him. I was about to scream not to do that, that he may have a broken spine, things I had learned in CPR class, but then reality kicked in: what were we going to do? Leave him here in the middle, waiting for a non existent ambulance, or a notoriously inefficient police and get run over by a speeding car? He asked me in broken English “You accident?” I said no, that he was alone. A tuktuk with a customer stopped, the customer stepped out and they shoved this limp man in it, on his way I believe to a hospital. All of this took no longer than 3 minutes.

Then we left in a furry, it started to look bad for us. Maybe it’s just paranoia from having read too many stories of foreigners involved in accidents in India. A crowd started to form, most probably to gawk at the accident, but after the question of whether we had caused it, it was time to get out of there as soon as possible. There was nothing we could do to help him. It would have been very easy and tempting to pin the accident on us. Staying could only hurt.

We left fast but drove slow. I wonder what that man thought, assuming he was conscious when I heard him moaning, when he saw a white woman with a helmet leaning over him and smiling!

We read a lot about Indian apathy when a crime is committed, when someone is hurt, but that night, a lot of people helped. The young man on the motorcycle who came to his help, the tuktuk driver who didn’t argue for his fee, the tuktuk customer who was now left with no transportation. We have checked the newspaper for information but haven’t found anything. Maybe tomorrow.  We were told at the dinner that night “Human life is cheap in India”.

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Remember that I was all jealous when E. went on an ill-fated scooter ride but got to see cute monkeys?

A few days ago, we went to Nandi Hills with a couple of friends and their amazing dog.  I expected a few monkeys here and there, but there were over 700 of them, they were everywhere!  It was awesome!!  A quick internet search shows they are bonnet macaques, a funny looking monkey with Spock ears, and very common in South India.  North India gets its own type of monkeys! (North v. South geographical battles exist here as well).

I was a bit concerned bringing a dog might be risky but our guide told us these monkeys would not attack, unless you have food they like, such as Slice (my favorite artificial mango drink).  We saw a lot of them eating mango pits or full ears of corn, so I believe they are fed on purpose.  There are also lots of stray dogs, who weren’t exactly friendly.  To a monkey, a dog on a leash was quite a novelty, and they came out of the trees to check him out.

 Dog and monkeyWhen the male monkey is fed up with your presence and wants you to go away, he shakes the branch he’s sitting on really hard and shows you his menacing teeth.  It does have a deterrent effect!

monkey teeth

The mom and babies are adorable, tears, fleas, ticks and all.  We saw dozens of them.  These monkeys make a sound that resembles a French “rrrrrr”.  You can hear the mother’s different sounds on this video:

They are so smart.  One of them found a discarded bottle of Coke (not mine), either thrown out by a not so smart human, or picked up in a garbage can.  He tried to drink the liquid from the bottom of the bottle, since gravity forces liquid to stay at the bottom.  I had already seen a monkey do that at the Bannerghatta Park.

“Oh gravity, thou art a heartless bitch” (Sheldon Cooper, The Big Bang Theory).

 

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There once was a dog

Who lived in a village

All white and scruffy

We’ll call him Cabbage*

One day while chilling

He saw strangers parking

They were white and stupid

On their phone googling

Cabbage came running

Scared the woman livid

She froze in place hoping

Not to become rabid

The nice lady close by

Yelled at Cabbage real loud

He lifted his leg high

Peed on the scooter all proud

* I called him Cabbage simply because it rythmes with “village”!  The problem with having a dog mark its territory on your scooter is that all the dogs you will encounter from now on will go into a frenzy.  And India has a lot of stray dogs.  That was for the least fun part of this afternoon.  Here’s a picture of him, he’s sitting on the left.  The nice lady is in front of him, the daughter in front of the house.  We gave her a bottle of water.  We give bottled water to a lot of people we meet on the road.

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Otherwise, the landscape was beautiful, as usual, though we ate a lot of dust.

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Indian colors, especially at sunset, are just incredible (click to enlarge).

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I do not understand why Google Maps can never give me proper directions from my house in Texas to the Houston Museum of Natural History (it doesn’t understand traffic around Hermann Circle), but can find anything in rural India.  We have learned that when Google says there is a road, there is a road, even if it looks like this:

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The one below is better since it has a remnant of having been paved!
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Here is a sample of what Google doesn’t put on their maps and that we found yesterday on our little road trip.

A variety of modes of transport: trains (station), trucks, tuk tuks and two wheelers and lots of smiles and waves (click to enlarge pictures).

Monkeys, all seven of them.  If you are only seeing five, you’re missing the one on the tree and the other on the motorcycle on the right.

Seven monkeys

People walking.

Man walking

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And a kid so happy to see us that he danced!

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